Art&Style

The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities

What to see among majestic cathedrals, "putìe" stores and traditional restaurants

by Lavinia Colonna Preti
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets

An itinerary through the eight capitals of Baroque Sicily, part of the UNESCO World Heritage since 2002, a style that characterized the magnificent reconstruction of the Val di Noto after the terrible earthquake of 1693.

Caltagirone, Militello in Val di Catania, Catania, Modica, Noto, Palazzolo Acreide, Ragusa, and Scicli are the eight suggestive centers of the famous Sicilian Baroque UNESCO World Heritage Site that sees its original expressive peak in Sicily in the 18th century.

Following the earthquake of 1693, under the reign of Charles II, the cities razed to the ground by the cataclysm were soon rebuilt thanks to the joint effort of the religious orders and the aristocratic families who lived there.

The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets

Sicilian Baroque is a manifestation of Sicilian exuberance and should be classified among the most important and original artistic creations on the island.

(Anthony Blunt, art historian)

Far from the geometric canons of the Renaissance, the decorative style that was used, scenographic and sumptuous, attracted architects and master craftsmen from all over Italy who gave life to a truly unique aesthetic thanks also to the use of particular materials, such as the white limestone that, kissed by the sun rays, takes on wonderful colors typical of Sicilian Baroque.

Our itinerary begins from Ragusa, given the convenient proximity to the Comiso airport, a Ryanair stopover, which, after the reconstruction, was divided into two: the old part, Ragusa Ibla, and Ragusa Superiore where it was decided to move the city after the earthquake.

The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets

Ragusa Ibla offers the unique experience of living the charm of the ancient caves dug into the limestone rock that has made this small town famous throughout the world. By booking a stay at the Locanda Don Serafino Relais & Chateaux, a boutique hotel and one-Michelin-star restaurant, you can, in fact, sleep or dine in suggestive natural alcoves.

Or, if you love breathtaking views, you can enjoy the city skyline in one of the suites of Dimora Bonafede and taste the best Iblean cuisine of the famous chef Ciccio Sultano choosing between his starred restaurant of the same name and the more informal bistro Ai Banchi, located right in front of the atelier of Cinabro Carrettieri, an unmissable address for the art of the Sicilian cart.

The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets

A half-hour drive away is Modica, known throughout the world for its chocolate. Here the visit begins from its undisputed temple: the Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, famous for its legendary hot chocolate.

To sleep you can book Casa Talìa, a small boutique hotel in a wonderful panoramic position, while for lunch or dinner the perfect address is one of the two “houses” of chef Accursio Craparo: his namesake restaurant, one Michelin star, and the more informal Osteria Accursio Radici.

The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets

If you visit Modica in the daytime, in the evening you can move to the nearby Palazzolo Acreide, a charming destination especially during the Christmas period for the spectacular decorations of the facade of the Basilica of San Sebastiano which it is transformed into the tallest Christmas tree in Sicily.

For dinner, the Ristorante Andrea, Chiocciola Slow Food, awaits you, where chef Andrea Alì will make you taste the best of the nearby territory. If you wish, from there you can make a digression and visit the center of Militello in Val di Catania with the beautiful Sanctuary of Santa Maria della Stella.

The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets

The next stop is Scicli, a wonderful town made famous by the Inspector Montalbano television series, still exquisitely authentic with its romantic central square to which we have dedicated an article with all the tips to discover it at its best.

The next day you can reach, about 40 minutes away returning north, Caltagirone, the capital of ceramics, the heart of the production of the wonderful Moor’s heads. Here you can visit the showroom of Verus Ceramiche, a company that has brought this art into a pop dimension, making artists and celebrities worldwide fall in love with it.

The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets

After the visit, you absolutely must take advantage of the excellent street food of the city, such as Pinsè, near the central square, where you can order arancini and pinsa, a sort of traditional ancestor of pizza.

Our itinerary continues with destination Noto, “the perfect baroque city”, as it is called, which was rebuilt in the so-called local “pietra forte”, a sandstone of a wonderful color between gold and pink.

The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets

Here you can sleep in one of its baroque palaces, such as the Q92 Noto Hotel, a beautiful boutique hotel, or book one of the luxury suites of Palazzo Trigona, both just a few meters from the famous Cathedral of Noto and Via Cavour, around which some of the most beautiful places in the city are located.

For an aperitif or an informal dinner, you can go to Norma Bistrot or Le Quattro Sorelle Palmeri, a wine bar and bistro, while for a fine dining experience, the right address is the Crocifisso by chef Marco Baglieri, one Michelin star.

The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets

The next morning we set off again towards Syracuse, towards Ortigia, an island connected to the mainland by two parallel bridges and the oldest part of the city, where you can visit its fascinating Castello Maniace overlooking the sea which also hosts art exhibitions.

Here you can sleep at La Maison, chambres de charme, which also runs the wonderful bar à vin La Société. For a drink or dinner you can book at Chiodo, a bistro and concept store that offers the best of Sicilian food and craftsmanship. Another unmissable address is the Trattoria la Foglia, where you can enjoy traditional Syracusan cuisine in a beautifully furnished ancient house.

The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets

The last, fascinating stop on our journey is Catania (which has an airport from which you can depart), the “black city”, so nicknamed because it is built in lava stone.

Between a visit to the Black Colosseum and the splendid Palazzo Biscari, a baroque jewel that houses the most beautiful staircase in the world, you can sleep in the 5-star Palazzo San Giorgio, in the baroque residence Dimora Paternò del Grado by architect Perla Fiamingo, or in the art hotel Gismundo di Gisira.

The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets

Catania also has one of the most famous food addresses in Sicily, Me Cumpari Turiddu, a traditional Sicilian restaurant and putìa (drugstore), as the sign says, with the atmosphere of the romantic 1920s Little Italy of Once Upon a Time in America, among stalls full of artisanal specialties, lace tablecloth, and cozy bulb lights.

Enjoy your visit!

The Secret

The identification of a specific Sicilian late Baroque style is mainly due to a study by the Englishman Anthony Blunt (Bournemouth, 1907 – London, 1983) who was a famous art historian who rose to prominence all over the world for being unmasked as a secret agent in the service of the Soviet Union during the Cold War.

The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets
The UNESCO Sicilian Baroque Cities: what to see — Sicilia Secrets

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